Urban Texture: A Symbiotic Map of Nature and Humanity
The grandeur of Lijiang Ancient Town lies in its masterful integration with the natural landscape. Backed by Xiangshan, Jinhongshan, and Shizishan, the city slopes gently from north to south. The crystal-clear Jade Spring water splits into three main streams at Yulong Bridge in the north—Xihé, Zhonghé, and Donghé—flowing through the city before branching into countless tributaries, creating a picturesque scene where "every household has a stream and every door is shaded by willows."
-Water Network: The ancient city's water system serves not only as the soul of its landscape but also as an ancient system for firefighting, sanitation, and climate regulation. Main streets run alongside rivers, while alleys border canals, with over 300 small stone bridges of various designs (such as the Dashi Bridge and Wanziqiao Bridge) spanning the waterways. In the early morning, residents still follow tradition by drinking "first water"; after 10 a.m., the water is channeled into the streets to wash the stone-paved surfaces—a centuries-old "street-washing" tradition (now optimized for water conservation).
Street Layout: The ancient city centers around a square plaza, with five main streets (Xinhua Street, Wuyi Street, Qiyi Street, Guangyi Street, and Huangshan Section) radiating outward to form a spiderweb-like network of alleys. The roads are paved with red cobblestones (known as "Wuhua Stone"), which remain mud-free in the rainy season and dust-free in the dry season. After centuries of use by people and horses, they are as smooth as mirrors, exuding a warm luster. Strolling through them feels like entering a maze without a map, where every turn may bring unexpected surprises.
Architectural Code-Naxi Aesthetics of Three Halls and One Screen Wall
The residential buildings in the ancient city are the unique pattern formed by the Naxi people absorbing the essence of the architecture of Han, Bai and Tibetan, which is typical of "three houses and one wall" and "four sides and five courtyards".
-Architectural Features: The "Three Halls and One Screen Wall" design consists of a main hall with two side wings, encircled by a screen wall opposite it, forming an elegant courtyard. The buildings predominantly feature earth-and-wood structures, with their interlocking wooden frames providing exceptional earthquake resistance. Intricate wood carvings on gate towers, screen walls, and window panels—depicting seasonal motifs, antiquities, and flora—alongside courtyard patterns created by pebbles and tiles, all reflect the Naxi people's aesthetic sensibilities and reverence for nature. The rustic earth-brick exterior walls contrast with the natural wood beams and pillars, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.
-Mu Mansion: "The Forbidden City to the north, the Mu Mansion to the south." This magnificent architectural complex in the southwest of the ancient city served as the administrative headquarters and residence of the Mu clan chieftains of Lijiang throughout history. Although partially destroyed during the late Qing Dynasty, the reconstructed Mu Mansion now harmonizes with the mountainous terrain, featuring a 369-meter-long central axis. Its majestic palaces and exquisite gardens blend imperial grandeur with the delicate elegance of Jiangnan-style landscapes, making it a "Lijiang Forbidden City" that reveals the rise and fall of the Mu family and the history of frontier governance.
Cultural Soul-Living Dongba Civilization
The ancient city is not only a museum of architecture, but also a living place of Naxi culture.
-Dongba Culture: The Naxi Dongba religion is an ancient polytheistic faith. Its priests, known as "Dongba," created tens of thousands of religious texts in Dongba script—a primitive pictographic writing style dubbed "living hieroglyphs." These texts document philosophy, astronomy, and medicine. Today, Dongba script remains visible in cultural courtyards within the ancient city and in the historic town of Shuhe.
Naxi Ancient Music: This world-class cultural heritage blends Taoist cave scripture music, Confucian classical music, and Naxi folk melodies. The ensemble primarily consists of elderly musicians over seventy, using instruments like the Sugudu and curved-necked pipa that are centuries old. Performed nightly at venues such as the Dayan Naxi Ancient Music Festival, its ancient yet clear melodies are hailed as "living fossils of music."
Photography Tips:
The best panoramic vantage point is the Wangu Tower on Lion Rock or the scenic cafes along the route, offering sweeping views of the ancient city's gray-tiled rooftops undulating like waves and the distant Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.
The golden hour for capturing the ancient city's serene essence is between 7 and 9 a.m., when the slanting sunlight bathes the scene in golden hues, wisps of cooking smoke curl up, and the cobblestone paths shimmer with sunlight.
The area of Dashiqiao is a classic location for photographing the small bridge and flowing water, the willow trees on both sides and the reflection of the houses.
The night view offers a chance to photograph the glittering reflections on the Bar Street, or to climb Lion Rock for a panoramic view of the ancient city under the starry sky.
