Zhejiang Cuisine: A Poetic Blend of Land, Water, and Literary Elegance

Zhejiang cuisine, one of China’s “Eight Great Cuisines,” originated in the picturesque landscapes of Zhejiang Province, encompassing Hangzhou’s West Lake, Ningbo’s coast, and Shaoxing’s canals. Its evolution was shaped by:

• Ancient Roots: The State of Yue (11th–5th century BCE) introduced rice cultivation and freshwater fishing. During the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279 CE), Hangzhou became the capital, blending imperial refinement with local flavors.
• Cultural Peak: Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1912) dynasties saw Zhejiang cuisine flourish through trade (Ningbo’s port) and literati gatherings. Shaoxing’s yellow wine and Hangzhou’s tea culture became culinary pillars.
• Modern Globalization: The 20th century popularized Zhejiang dishes globally, with West Lake Fish in Sweet and Sour Sauce becoming a Chinese culinary icon.

Zhejiang cuisine is divided into four major sub-styles, each reflecting local geography and culture:

1. Hangzhou Style (杭州菜 Hángzhōu Cài):
   • Focuses on freshwater fish and bamboo. Techniques include “drunk” (marinated in wine) and “west lake” (light, sweet-sour).
   • Examples: West Lake Fish in Sweet and Sour Sauce, Dongpo Pork.
2. Ningbo Style (宁波菜 Níngbō Cài):
   • Emphasizes seafood and salty-sweet flavors. Dishes often feature dried seafood and preserved vegetables.
   • Examples: Ningbo Salted Crab, Dried Yellow Croaker Soup.
3. Shaoxing Style (绍兴菜 Shàoxīng Cài):
   • Bold flavors with yellow wine and fermented ingredients. Inspired by Shaoxing’s wine-making heritage.
   • Examples: Shaoxing Drunk Chicken, Stinky Tofu Stew.
4. Wenzhou Style (温州菜 Wēnzhōu Cài):
   • Light, fresh flavors with seafood and herbs. Influenced by Wenzhou’s coastal trade.
   • Examples: Wenzhou Fish Balls, Duck Blood Soup with Bamboo Shoots.

Zhejiang cuisine embodies the harmony of Jiangnan (south of the Yangtze) culture:

• Dining Philosophy: “Qīng dàn, yǎ zhì” (清淡雅致, “light, elegant, and refined”), prioritizing natural flavors.
• Tea Culture: Hangzhou’s Longjing (Dragon Well) tea is paired with delicate dishes like West Lake Fish.
• Literati Influence: Ming Dynasty poets like Xu Wei (徐渭) wrote about food aesthetics, inspiring dishes such as “Bamboo Shoot Soup” served in porcelain bowls.

• Flavor Profile:
  • Fresh-sweet (鲜甜 xiān tián) from lake fish and bamboo shoots.
  • Umami-rich broths from chicken, ham, and dried seafood.
  • Mild spiciness from white pepper and ginger.
• Techniques:
  • Steaming (蒸 zhēng) and quick-frying (爆炒 bào chǎo) to preserve freshness.
  • “Drunk” cooking (醉 zuì): Marinating in Shaoxing yellow wine (e.g., Drunk Chicken).
  • Sugar-glazing (挂霜 guà shuāng) for sweet dishes.
• Core Ingredients:
  • Freshwater fish (carp, mandarin fish), bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, Shaoxing yellow wine, and dried scallops.

• West Lake Fish in Sweet and Sour Sauce (西湖醋鱼 Xīhú Cùyú): Poached grass carp in a tangy sauce of sugar, vinegar, and ginger.
• Dongpo Pork (东坡肉 Dōngpō Ròu): Braised pork belly in Shaoxing wine and soy sauce, named after poet Su Dongpo.
• Ningbo Salted Crab (宁波咸蟹 Níngbō Xián Xiè): Raw crab marinated in salt and alcohol, served chilled.
• Shaoxing Drunk Chicken (绍兴醉鸡 Shàoxīng Zuì Jī): Poached chicken marinated in yellow wine and herbs.
• Wenzhou Fish Balls (温州鱼丸 Wēnzhōu Yú Wán): Bouncy fish paste balls in clear broth with celery.
• Bamboo Shoot Soup with Ham (腌笃鲜 Yān Dǔ Xiān): A springtime stew of bamboo shoots, pork, and cured ham.
• Calligraphy Rice (书卷饭 Shūjuàn Fàn): Rice shaped like ancient scrolls, filled with mushroom and chestnut.
• West Lake Lotus Seed Soup (西湖莼菜汤 Xīhú Chǔn Cài Tāng): A refreshing soup of lotus seeds and water shield.

Hangzhou

• Louwailou (楼外楼): Founded in 1848, renowned for West Lake Fish and Dongpo Pork.
• Zhiweiguan (知味观): Established in 1902, famous for Ningbo-style salted crab and cat ear noodles.

Shaoxing

• Xianheng Hotel (咸亨酒店): A 1894 institution featured in Lu Xun’s novels, serving Drunk Chicken and stinky tofu.
• Shaoxing Wine House (绍兴酒家): Specializes in yellow wine-braised dishes.

Ningbo

• Zhuangyuan Lou (状元楼): Founded in 1785, known for Ningbo Salted Crab and dried seafood soups.
• Ningbo Seafood Market (宁波渔市场): A bustling hub for fresh crab, squid, and clams.

Wenzhou

• Wenzhou Fish Ball Restaurant (温州鱼丸店): A 1920s shop serving Wenzhou Fish Balls and duck blood soup.

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage

• Shaoxing Yellow Wine Brewing: A 2,500-year-old craft using glutinous rice and spring water.
• West Lake Cultural Landscape: A UNESCO site where Hangzhou’s tea plantations inspire dishes like Longjing shrimp.

Culinary Landmarks

1. Hangzhou West Lake (西湖): The scenic lake where West Lake Fish was created, with lakeside restaurants serving lotus seed soup.
2. Shaoxing Ancestral Temple (绍兴祖庙): Hosts wine-making rituals and feasts featuring Drunk Chicken.
3. Ningbo Port (宁波港): A historic trading hub where seafood dishes like dried croaker soup were developed.
4. Wenzhou Nanxi River (楠溪江): A pristine river providing freshwater fish for Wenzhou Fish Balls.

• Fusion Trends: Zhejiang-style Longjing tea-smoked salmon, Dongpo pork tacos, and lotus-flavored macarons.
• Sustainability: Farm-to-table restaurants in Hangzhou using organic bamboo shoots and free-range chicken.
• Global Presence: Michelin-starred Zhejiang restaurants in Shanghai (Louwailou) and Paris (Le Lotus).

Zhejiang cuisine is a testament to Jiangnan’s harmony between nature and artistry—a culinary tradition that continues to inspire with its elegance and precision.