Anhui Cuisine: A Culinary Ode to Mountain Elegance and Scholarly Simplicity

Anhui cuisine, one of China’s “Eight Great Cuisines,” originated in the misty mountains and ancient villages of Anhui Province. Its evolution was shaped by:

• Ancient Roots: The Huizhou merchants (11th–19th century CE) popularized preserved ingredients like cured ham and dried mushrooms during their travels.
• Cultural Peak: Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1912) dynasties saw Anhui cuisine flourish as scholars and merchants blended rustic simplicity with refined techniques.
• Modern Globalization: The 20th century introduced Anhui dishes like Stinky Mandarin Fish to international audiences, celebrated for their bold yet balanced flavors.

Anhui cuisine is divided into three major sub-styles, each reflecting local geography and traditions:

1. Huizhou Style (徽州菜 Huīzhōu Cài):
   • Focus: Mountain ingredients and slow-cooking. Techniques include “stone pot stewing” and “wood-fired roasting.”
   • Examples: Stinky Mandarin Fish, Bamboo Shoot Stew with Cured Ham.
2. Wuhu Style (芜湖菜 Wúhú Cài):
   • Emphasis: Freshwater fish and river snails. Dishes often feature soy sauce and sugar glazes.
   • Examples: Wuhu Fish Hotpot, Sweet-and-Sour Carp.
3. Anqing Style (安庆菜 Ānqìng Cài):
   • Characteristics: Hearty stews and fermented ingredients. Inspired by Anqing’s agrarian heritage.
   • Examples: Anqing Pork Belly Stew, Fermented Tofu with Chili.

Anhui cuisine embodies the harmony of Huizhou’s scholar-merchant culture:

• Dining Philosophy: “Zìrán zhī měi, jiǎn dàn zhī yì” (自然之美，简淡之味, “natural beauty, simple flavors”), prioritizing ingredients’ inherent qualities.
• Scholarly Influence: Ming Dynasty literati like Cheng Ji (程吉) promoted dishes such as “Lotus Seed Soup” served in blue-and-white porcelain.
• Rural Heritage: Dishes like Bamboo Shoot Stew reflect agrarian traditions of foraging and preserving mountain ingredients.

• Flavor Profile:
  • Earthy-umami (鲜醇 xiān chún) from cured ham, dried mushrooms, and wild herbs.
  • Smoky-sweet (烟甜 yān tián) from wood-fired cooking and sugar glazes.
  • Mild spiciness (微辣 wēi là) from white pepper and preserved chili.
• Techniques:
  • Stone pot stewing (石锅炖 shíguō dùn): Slow-cooking ingredients in clay pots over charcoal.
  • Wood-fired roasting (柴火烤 cháihuǒ kǎo): Infusing meats with smoky aroma.
  • Fermenting (腌制 yānzhì): Creating pickled vegetables and chili paste.
• Core Ingredients:
  • Cured ham, bamboo shoots, dried mushrooms, freshwater fish, and wild herbs.
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• Stinky Mandarin Fish (臭鳜鱼 Chòu Guìyú):
  • Carp fermented in rice wine and chili paste, then pan-fried until crispy.
• Huizhou One-Pot Stew (徽州一品锅 Huīzhōu Yīpǐn Guō):
  • A layered stew of pork, bamboo shoots, tofu, and eggs, slow-cooked in a clay pot.
• Bamboo Shoot Stew with Cured Ham (腌笃鲜 Yān Dǔ Xiān):
  • A springtime dish of fresh bamboo shoots, cured ham, and pork belly.
• Wuhu Fish Hotpot (芜湖鱼火锅 Wúhú Yú Huǒguō):
  • Carp simmered in a clear broth with ginger, soy sauce, and fresh herbs.
• Anqing Pork Belly Stew (安庆红烧肉 Ānqìng Hóngshāo Ròu):
  • Braised pork belly in soy sauce and sugar, served with fermented tofu.

• Huizhou:
  • Laojie Lou (老街楼): Founded in 1820, renowned for Stinky Mandarin Fish and Bamboo Shoot Stew.
  • Huizhou Merchant’s Mansion (徽商府 Huīshāng Fǔ): A restored 19th-century mansion serving Huizhou One-Pot Stew.
• Wuhu:
  • Yangtze River Fish House (长江鱼馆 Chángjiāng Yú Guǎn): Established in 1902, famous for Wuhu Fish Hotpot and Sweet-and-Sour Carp.
• Anqing:
  • Fermented Tofu Workshop (安庆腐乳坊 Ānqìng Fǔrǔ Fāng): A 1890s institution specializing in preserved tofu and chili paste.

• UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage:
  • Huizhou Cured Ham Making: A 1,200-year-old tradition of curing pork legs with salt and wood smoke.

• Culinary Landmarks:
  • Huangshan Mountains (黄山): The source of wild herbs and bamboo shoots for Huizhou dishes, with mountain villages preserving ancient foraging techniques.
  • Xidi Ancient Village (西递古村): A UNESCO site where Huizhou merchants’ mansions host feasts featuring One-Pot Stew.
  • Wuhu Yangtze River Port (芜湖长江码头): A historic trading hub for freshwater fish and river snails.

• Fusion Trends: Anhui-style truffle-infused cured ham, Stinky Mandarin Fish tacos, and bamboo shoot macarons.
• Sustainability: Organic farms in Huizhou supplying bamboo shoots and wild herbs to eco-conscious restaurants.
• Global Presence: Michelin-starred Anhui restaurants in Shanghai (Laojie Lou) and Paris (Le Huizhou).

Anhui cuisine is a testament to the rustic elegance of China’s mountainous heartland—a culinary tradition that balances earthy simplicity with scholarly refinement.