Every brick and tile in Beijing is imbued with literary memories, such as the white pagoda in Beihai, the green bricks in Hutongs, and the shimmering waves in Shichahai, which are eternal images in the writings of literati. This article follows the brushstrokes of writers such as Lao She, Shi Tiesheng, and Wang Zengqi, unlocking the poetic and philosophical ideas of Beihai Park, the bustling streets of Hutong, and the cultural ups and downs of Shichahai. It takes you to understand the soul of this city through the interweaving of words and reality.
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1. Beihai Park: From Lao She's Pen Tip to Shi Tiesheng's Philosophical Thoughts
Literary Origins: Poetic Dwelling in the City
Lao She wrote in "Four Generations Under One Roof": "The White Pagoda of Beihai appears and disappears in the mist, like a fairy wearing a white veil." Shi Tiesheng, on the other hand, mentioned Beihai's "silence and eternity" in "Me and the Altar of Earth", viewing it as a habitat for the soul. This water body, which carries the genes of royal gardens from the Liao, Jin, Yuan, Ming, Qing, and Five Dynasties, is not only a witness to history, but also a spiritual homeland for literati to express their emotions.
Deep Tour Route: Unlock Literary Landmarks
Morning: White Pagoda Poetry and Painting Line
Yong'an Bridge → Qionghua Island → White Pagoda: Walk along the lake embankment described by Lao She as "willow threads brushing against the shore", and after landing on the island, visit the "Yuegu Tower" recorded in the "Examination of Old News in the Sun". Inside the tower, there is a carved stone of the "Sanxi Hall Sutra", which can be found with inscriptions and ink from Emperor Qianlong;
Hidden gameplay: Sitting at the "Yinsheng Pavilion" on the east side of the White Pagoda, enjoying the lake view, imitating Shi Tiesheng's "slowly walking in the garden with a wheelchair" mentality, feeling the life philosophy of "once a person is born, it is no longer a debatable issue".
Afternoon: Haopu Jian - gathering place for literati
Haopu Jian → Huafang Zhai: This is a gathering place for literati in the Qing Dynasty, known as the "Poetry, Wine, and Elegance Collection". Zhu Ziqing once wrote the Beijing version manuscript of "Qinhuai River in the Sound of Paddles and the Shadow of Lanterns" here. The pavilions and water pavilions can be imagined as the elegant charm of ancient literati "winding water and flowing cups";
Seasonal restriction: During the summer when lotus flowers are in full bloom, rent a small boat to the former site of the "Lotus Market" to revisit the image of "camel bells by the lotus pond" in "Old Stories of the South of the City".
Practical tips
Transportation: Directly from Beihai North Station on Metro Line 6, the nearest entrance is through the East Gate;
Literary Easter egg: Every Saturday morning, the "Lao She Reading Club" is held at the "Cultural Station" in Beihai Park, where you can read selected passages from "Four Generations Under One Roof" and visit the White Pagoda at night;
Photo location: The "Lake and Mountain Scenery" archway on the southwest side of the White Pagoda is a classic camera spot for capturing the "reflection of the White Pagoda". It also has a "ink and wash" effect on rainy days.
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2. Hutong: The Fireworks Code in Wang Zengqi's Writing
Literary Origins: Living History Books in the Common Market
Wang Zengqi wrote in "hutong culture": "Hutongs are the veins of Beijing people, and the taste of life is hidden in the pickled vegetables in Wotou." Lin Haiyin's "Old Stories in the South of the City" is set against the backdrop of Zhushikou Hutong, outlining childhood memories of old Beijing. Every alley is a miniature epic of the common people, with the cries of vendors hidden in the cracks and the rise and fall of families engraved on the doorsteps.
Deep Tour Route: Decoding Fireworks in Text
Morning: Black Sesame Hutong and Carbon Water Jianghu
Zhajiangmian No. 69 of Fangzhuan Factory: the standard configuration of "green beans, shredded cucumber, and chopped celery" described by Wang Zengqi, the noodles are pulled out of the pot by hand and matched with raw garlic to restore the "food in the alley";
Hidden Corner: The "Ink Box Bookstore" deep in the alley houses copies of Lin Haiyin's manuscripts, where you can sit under an old locust tree and read "Winter Sun, Childhood, Camel team".
Noon: "Yangmei Bamboo Diagonal Street - Footprints of Literati
Model Bookstore: Handprinted the "Hu Tong Poetry Inscription" once inscribed by Hu Shi at the former site of the World Journal of the Republic of China;
Experience of Wall Piercing: Pass through the "One Foot Street" (the shortest alley in Beijing), turn into Tongzi Hutong, and see the prototype of the "Qi Family Courtyard" in "Four Generations Under One Roof". The plaque on the door lintel reading "Loyalty and Honesty Passing on the Family" is still there.
Night: Beiluogu Lane, Evening Wenxin
No. 41 Ju'er Hutong: The fennel egg dumplings with "always full filling" make you understand why Wang Zengqi said, "Dumplings are just wine, the more you eat, the more delicious they become;
Poetry Gathering under the Starry Sky: Attend the "North Island Poetry Recitation" every Friday night at the "Poetry Store in the Hutong" and experience the night scenery of the alley where "you didn't return as scheduled".
Guide to Avoiding Pits
Avoiding the main street of NanluoguXiang, the real fireworks are in the old Beijing chessboard courtyard of "Qianyuan'ensi Hutong";
Learn the "Hutong jargon" from the local guide: "Mendun'er" is divided into box shaped (for civil officials) and drum shaped (for military officials), and the "bat brick" on the "shadow wall" symbolizes "good fortune".
3. Shichahai: The ukiyo-e scroll under Zhang Henshui's pen
Literary Origins: The Cultural Rise and Fall of Waterfront
Zhang Henshui described in "The Causes and Conditions of Crying and Laughing": "The lotus lanterns in Shichahai have illuminated the joys and sorrows of many people." This place was once the end point of the Yuan Dynasty's transportation and the "golden pot" for literati. Shi Tiesheng called it the "eyes of the city," while Liu Xinwu measured the flow of time with "the dawn and dusk of Shichahai" in "The Bell and Drum Tower.
Deep Tour Route: Crossing Novel Scenes
Day: Qianhai and Shijing Baixiang
Cigarette Bag Diagonal Street → Silver Ingot Bridge: While reading the street scene of "Guan Xiugu selling her skills" in "Tears and Laughter", the "barbecue season" by the Silver Ingot Bridge retains the "grilled meat" technique from a hundred years ago, with the oil on the iron grilled meat sizzling like the smoke and fire of the rivers and lakes in the novel;
Guo Moruo's former residence: The "Ginkgo Avenue" inside the courtyard is the birthplace of "Goddess". In autumn, fallen leaves are covered with green bricks, which can imitate the poet's heroic act of "standing on the edge of the earth and broadcasting".
Night: Houhai - Light and Shadow Poetry Line
Bar Street Terrace: Order a "Night at Shichahai" cocktail, watch the embankment where "Mu Ying" from "The Bell and Drum Tower" walks, and blend modern folk songs with old silk and bamboo in the evening breeze;
Night boat experience: Riding on the "Water Wenxin" painted boat, listening to the lecturer explain the origin of the "Taixu Illusion Realm" in "Dream of the Red Chamber" and the Shichahai. The boatman's chant travels through a hundred years and should be accompanied by the dim light of lanterns on the shore.
Seasonal restrictions
Spring "Shichahai Poetry Festival": Reciting poems by Bei Dao and Shu Ting under the crabapple tree in the former residence of Soong Ching ling, with petals falling from the poems, creating a literary scene of "people's faces turning red with crabapples";
Winter Ice Rink: Imitating the "Little Yingzi" ice skating bike from "Old Stories in the South of the City", the water plants under the ice stretch in the sunshine, resembling the "silent rhythm of life" in Shi Tiesheng's pen.
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